香港酒游记之三——杯卖酒

葡萄酒专卖店或葡萄酒吧是否应该提供杯卖葡萄酒的服务，一直以来众说纷纭。至少有一点，在内地，绝大多数葡萄酒专卖店和葡萄酒吧都不愿意提供杯卖葡萄酒，尤其是那些价格昂贵的葡萄酒，没人愿意承担这样的风险。即便在上海，我也只是在IFC的Enoteca和极少数的五星级酒店里看到过高价葡萄酒的杯卖。

这次在香港IFC的Amoeno葡萄酒专卖店，我着实被其大胆的杯卖酒给震撼了。刚进门，映入眼帘的便是齐刷刷的9台杯卖机，8乘以9，共计72种杯卖酒。更加令我震惊的还在后面，每张桌子上都配有嵌入式iPod电子酒单， 提供的杯卖酒分为大，中，小三种。我粗略的看了下酒，Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva，Gaja，Chateau Rayas， Leory，Opus One， 以及各种波尔多的列级名庄和勃根第的特级园。。。。从波尔多到勃根第到隆河，从新世界到旧世界，基本都是顶级的酒款。

正巧老板Andrew当天也在店内，和他聊起他的杯卖酒好卖的原因，Andrew说他每周都会更新酒款，这批卖完就换一批酒。我称赞他很有魄力，敢这么玩葡萄酒，他很自豪地说他在纳帕还有比这里更大的葡萄酒专卖店，同样也是只做名庄酒的杯卖。。。我一边喝着Chateau Rayas Reserve 1997，一边在想，就消费者而言，谁会不喜欢顶级酒的杯卖，花最少的钱就能喝到市价几千的名庄酒，这的确很划算。但是一次开这么多好酒，其中有很多老年份的酒，3天内不卖掉，就真的可惜这些好酒了。既便店主有很好的选酒技巧，特意选了许多1995年的波尔多（Chateau Lynch Bages， Chateau Palmer等，太多，不在此一一列举）这个需要超长时间醒酒的“沉睡”年份，但谁又能保证到顾客手里的每一支酒都没有问题？

Travel in Hongkong 3—wine by glass service

In the recent years, the issue of whether wine shops of wine bars should provides wine by glass service has sparked much debates. At least, most of the wine shops/wine bars in China mainland not will to bear the risk, especially for those fine wines. Even in Shanghai, which regarded as relatively mature market, wine by glass service for premium wines only can be found in IFC Enoteca and other few 5 star hotel lobby bar.

During this time my travel in HK, the really interesting wine bar have been found—Amoeno, I actually shocked by its wine by the glass service at that moment. When entering into the door, the first came into sight was 9 wine by glass machines, totally 72 various wines by glass. Furthermore, each table has inside style iPad as electronic wine lists, classify the service into three size, small, medium, large, respectively. When I view the list, I found the list contains most of French wine region such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone, also  both the new world and the old world, for example, Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva，Gaja，Chateau Rayas， Leory，Opus One, lots of Bordeaux GCC and Bourgogne GC.

What a coincidence that the owner of Amoeno—Andrew was in the wine shop. When I talked to him, we communicated the reason why his wine by glass has sold good in HK, he told me that the primary reason is he updates the list every week, so every week’s wines are different. I really appreciate for his courage; he said he has another bigger wine bar in Napa, for fine wines as well.

While Chateau Rayas Reserve 1997, I was just thinking about in terms of customers, it should be everyone prefers the fine wines, so as to pay least money to taste expensive wines seemed worthwhile. However what a pity for those wastes, it looks impossible for those large numbers of fine wine bottles includes lots of old vintage wine to be consumed in 3 days.

Even the shopper is very skilled and sophisticated to choose some 1995 Bordeaux GCC as the sleepy vintage, which needs incredibly long time decantage to wake up, but who’s able to guarantee there won’t any problem for each wine by glass?