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对话马爹利首席酿酒师伯努瓦•菲尔

来源: 红酒客    作者:     2014-08-22 09:48:37


法国著名干邑世家马爹利新近推出一款“马爹利蓝带传世盛颂首席酿酒师限量版”,由家族经典产品马爹利蓝带及由1975和1998两个珍贵年份的“生命之水”特调而成的干邑组成,以岁月精粹的珍酿完美诠释了马爹利干邑超凡卓著的风格和传世匠艺的传承。伯努瓦•菲尔精心选择了时隔百年的1975年和1998年的“生命之水”,以当代精神诠释历史底蕴,调配出一款凝聚先辈灵感与岁月精华的佳酿。这款干邑拥有迷人的深金琥珀色和极富表达力的香气,芫荽、姜黄、白果、苹果和梨的清香中交织着姜饼和红糖的甘甜,又略带丁香和肉桂等优质香料的丰醇香气。“在芬芳和口感都无限精妙的感官领域,唯有精湛的调配记忆和对酿造的无限激情,才足以重新诠释先辈的精粹,这是一场超越时空的对话。”伯努瓦·菲尔评价道。

 

Q1:您创作这款佳酿的灵感来源是什么?

 

A1: 事实上,我当初的灵感是想创献一款佳作,表达对马爹利历代首席酿酒师的无限敬意。我们在马爹利酒窖中发现了2款储存了超过一个世纪的珍贵“生命之水”,当初是由夏普尔家族的第一位马爹利首席酿酒师奥古斯丁•夏普尔挑选并保存下来的,我将这两款生命之水加以调配而成一款珍酿。但由于百年前的生命之水十分稀有,为了让更多的干邑鉴赏家能分享到马爹利干邑世家传承至今的干邑酿制精粹,我决定用相隔百年的另外两款窖藏的精选“生命之水”来调配一款珍酿,与马爹利家族经典产品马爹利蓝带共同组成“马爹利蓝带传世盛颂首席酿酒师限量版”。

In fact my inspiration is a tribute to cellar Masters. We found two exceptional eaux-de-vie preserved for over a century: a blend composed by two of oldest Martell eaux-de-vie, preserved for posterity by Augustin Chapeau, first Cellar Master of the Chapeau lineage. Given that it could only be enjoyed by a limited number of happy fews, I decided to create a second blend with “Martell Cordon Bleu limited edition – Tribute to Cellar Masters, to share the adventure with a wider audience of connoisseurs.

 

 

Q2为何选用19751998年的“生命之水”进行调配?能介绍下调配过程中的特别之处或趣闻吗?

 

A2: 如我在第一个问题中所谈到的,我选择了1975年和1998年的“生命之水”,首先因为这两款与奥古斯丁·夏普尔当年保存下来的1875年和1898年的优质“生命之水”恰好相差一个世纪,这是一个很有意思的比照,也是我调配这款干邑的灵感来源。比较有趣的是,1975年的“生命之水”是由马爹利曾经的首席酿酒师弗朗索瓦·夏普尔精选并保存下来的,他是奥古斯丁·夏普尔的侄子,也是夏普尔家族的第三位马爹利首席酿酒师。他是马爹利干邑酿制技艺的现代化进程的发起人,在创新变革和品质优化方面起到了至关重要的作用。而众所周知,奥古斯丁的儿子奥古斯特·夏普尔创造了马爹利家族的经典产品马爹利蓝带,他酿制的干邑酒体饱满,兼有香料、姜饼、黄糖、肉桂及香草的气息。

Yes, for this blend I chose to work with eaux-de-vies from 1975 and1998, exactly one hundred years younger than the ones preserved by Augustin Chapeau. Also the eau-de-vie dating from 1975 was distilled by François Chapeau who is at the origin of the innovations and quality improvements which led to the Martell modern method of distillation. François is also Auguste Chapeau’s nephew and Auguste is the Cellar Master who conducted the Martell Cordon Bleu creation process from 1910 to 1912.The result is a very rich blend marked by spices, gingerbread, brown sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.

 

 

Q3: 您认为在哪种场合适合饮用这款限量版干邑?您会选择独自品饮还是会和朋友、家人一起共饮?

 

A3: 和朋友、家人一起品饮这款限量版十分地合适,在温馨好客的餐桌时刻,与精致佳肴相配,一定能度过一个非常愉快的夜晚。当然,这款干邑也十分值得一个人独自品赏,因为这款限量版包含马爹利经典产品马爹利蓝带和一款特调干邑,口感与香气上各具特色,蓝带是独特的富有花香气息的干邑,而这款特调干邑拥有极富表达力的香气,芫荽、姜黄、白果、苹果和梨的清香中交织着姜饼和红糖的甘甜,又略带丁香和肉桂等优质香料的丰醇香气,如果能花上一点时间细细品鉴,定能回味无穷。

With friends and family. In a warm and welcoming setting, a table set with the finest foods, comfortable seats, a few glasses and a bottle of Martell cognac.

 

Q4:您认为选择一款好的干邑的标准是什么?

 

A4: 我们会通过品鉴的方式选择质优的干邑;一般会通过以下几点进行评估:(1) 干邑是否有瑕疵(主要来源于酿制干邑的葡萄酒的品质和木桶);(2) 蒸馏后的生命之水的感观特质?它符合马爹利的风格么?(比如说无酵母蒸馏);(3) 陈酿后带来的香气和口感特征?主要涉及两方面,一方面是橡木桶木质来源(细孔橡木vs 粗孔橡木),另一方面是木桶桶龄(新木桶,二手木桶,老木桶);(4)干邑是否完美地体现出其产区的特色?比如说马爹利干邑是否体现出宝德区的产区特色,因为调配马爹利干邑的“生命之水”原液中有部分来自于这个产区。

We select quality cognac through tasting sessions; we evaluate several things: (1) is there any default to the cognac (default coming from wine quality or from barrel) (2) what is the distillation sensory profile ? is it appropriate to Martell style (e.g. distillation without lies) ? (3) what is the aging sensory profile, both in terms of wood origin (fine grain for Martell vs. wide grain) and in terms of barrel age (new barrel, second usage barrel, old barrel). (4) does the cognac express perfectly its growth area of origin ? For example, do a Borderies cognac express what we expect of a cognac from this region ?

 

 

Q5:作为一名干邑酿酒师,您认为干邑最大的魅力在哪里?

 

A5: 对于我来说,干邑最大的魅力在于造就它的葡萄品质以及所在的干邑产区。葡萄品质决定了干邑是否具备卓越的酒体和香气特征(粮食酿制的烈酒无法带有这样的特征);干邑的产区分布影响重大——比如生长在干邑北部产区的白玉霓葡萄品种可呈现出无可比拟的优雅以及复杂度。

To me, the greatest charm of cognac is what makes it so specific: its origin from grapes and from cognac region. The origin from grapes gives cognac an incomparable body and aromatic profile (which you can’t meet in any grain spirit for example), while the origin from cognac region, at the northern climatic limit of growth of Ugni-Blanc grapes reveals incomparable elegance and complexity.